Washing Machine Not Draining? 5 Steps to Take Before Calling a Pro

You open the washer to move clothes to the dryer and find them sitting in a tub full of water. It is one of the most common appliance problems we get calls about — and one of the most fixable.

Before you call a technician, work through these five steps. In many cases, you can resolve the problem yourself in under 20 minutes.

The most common causes:

• A clogged drain pump filter (the #1 cause)
• A kinked or clogged drain hose
• A small object (sock, coin, button) lodged in the pump
• A failed drain pump motor
• A lid switch or door latch issue

The first three are DIY-fixable. The last two require a technician.

Common drain-related codes:

• Whirlpool/Maytag: F21, F9 E1
• Samsung: 5E, SE, 5C
• LG: OE
• Bosch: E18, F18

For front-load washers: Locate the access panel at the bottom front. Open the small drain hose and let water flow into a pan. Then unscrew the filter cap slowly.

For top-load washers: Use a wet/dry vacuum or bail it out manually.

Front-load washers have a filter behind the access panel at the bottom front. Unscrew the filter cap counterclockwise, rinse the filter under running water, check for lodged objects, and reinstall.

Check for kinks behind the washer. The drain hose should enter the standpipe at 30–96 inches from the floor — too low and water siphons back in.

The washer will not drain if it thinks the door is open. Check for a broken lid switch (top-load) or door latch (front-load).

If none of the above works, you likely have a failed drain pump motor, control board issue, or worn pump impeller — all requiring a technician.

• Drain pump filter cleaning: Free (DIY) or $75–$125
• Drain pump replacement: $150–$300
• Lid switch or door latch: $100–$200
• Control board: $200–$400

Call (720) 333-0874 for same-day washer repair across Denver metro.